Last month, just before I left for Japan, the Japanese prime minister resigned, having lost popular support because of his failure to negotiate the removal of US military bases from Okinawa, the issue on which he had been elected.
Although years ago I used to teach on them, I could understand voters' aversion to the bases. Okinawa is only seventy miles long and seven miles across at its widest point, with a fragile coral reef, and Henoko, the site of a proposed new base, is home to the dugong, a mermaid-like mammal who feeds on sea grass.
My trip to Japan was to visit my son, who has taught there for the past four years, and take him to Okinawa to show him the magical island on which he had spent the first three years of his life. Flying to Okinawa seemed like time travel, but when we got there, I found, not surprisingly, that it had changed considerably in the 26 years since I had been there. Driving around the island felt at times like one of those post-apocalyptic movies where you barely recognize landmarks: there were new roads, even a highway; the golf course where I had always turned left to go home (there were no street signs then) had closed and looked ghostly; the red light district has been renamed Park Avenue and is now a genteel shopping area; the covered market that once housed the designer clothes store "We The Theme Produce of Ropé" is now shabby.



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