April 2009
Torch bearers
The staff at Golden Flame Restaurant maintain a standard from yesteryear
Article by Elizabeth Brinkama
Photos by Julie Wiatt
Back in the day, I used to work in an office building in downtown Silver Spring. A mere two blocks away was the Golden Flame Restaurant, which always appeared to be a somewhat mysterious place. The windows were tinted, so I really couldn’t see inside and from the name it somehow seemed like one of those old steakhouses from the ‘50s. You know the kind I mean. Heavy red damask drapes, waiters in tuxedos who prepare your Caesar salad tableside and cigar smoke wafting through the room. Though intrigued, I never ventured inside. Ah, the perks of reviewing for the Voice.
Established in 1972, there are in fact no heavy drapes, but instead floor to ceiling windows and, of course, nary a cigar to be found. The interior is country club chic, but in a good way. There is comfort and familiarity in a wait staff that is both professional and personable. They are old school in the very best sense. Both lunch and dinner boast an extensive menu heavily influenced by the family’s Greek heritage.
With a refreshing glass of unsweetened tea and a basket of still hot from the oven bread set before me, it was time to peruse the menu. Fortunately more and more restaurants, both casual and fine dining, are employing sophisticated websites that include their menu offerings so I was able to do a little research beforehand. The Golden Flame’s website is replete with mouth watering food photography, shots of the interior and information on special events. It also includes their lunch and dinner menus, including daily specials, and their complete wine list.
I’m a big fan of the Club Sandwich. It’s a veritable smorgasbord of deliciousness. The thing about a club sandwich is that it is often perceived to be as simple as a peanut butter and jelly sandwich. No flair, no style, so what’s the big deal? It is in the execution of the basics, however, that I find the true test of any kitchen. Is the same attention to detail, i.e. care in plating and ingredient selection used as with a more “glamorous” selection? Passing with flying colors, the club sandwich at the Golden Flame is bountiful. Served warm with shredded romaine lettuce, crisp apple smoked bacon, roasted turkey and sliced tomato on toasted white bread and covered liberally with crispy golden fries, and just the perfect sprinkling of salt, that literally almost melts in your mouth.
The Grilled Salmon Salad is a comfy bed of mesclun greens smothered in generous slices of grilled salmon. The edges are perfectly crisp and the meat is flaky and tender. Fennell is lightly sprinkled throughout giving a slight aroma and taste of licorice. Having never been a fan of licorice, I actually found the restrained us of fennel added to the dish only added to its flavor and was in no way overpowering. The House Vinaigrette, a fusion of Iranian and Greek ingredients, is sweet and tangy and brings out of the flavors of the salad.
The Zorba Platter is a plentiful medley of grilled chicken spiced with Greek oregano, pork souvlaki and slices of gyro with a tazaziki sauce comprised of yogurt, cucumber and dill. It’s accompanied by a small greek salad laden with chunks of herbed feta cheese, olives, tomatoes and anchovies and the most wonderful, warm and chewy pita bread. Once you have had their fresh pita, you will definitely think twice before buying the thin, stale version you find in most grocery stores.
There are many desserts baked on the premises, including bread pudding and baklava. The chocolate cake, a disappointment at most restaurants as it is virtually guaranteed to be served dry and stale, was unbelievably rich, dense, and moist. Each layer is bathed in a decadent ganache with what was either a hint of rum or Grand Marnier. Needless-to-say, the plate was practically licked clean. The almond cake was equally delicious with a generous layer of marzipan on a thin layer of cake, topped with another layer of custard and toasted crushed almonds.
The restaurant serves the community not only gastronomically, but artistically with paintings adorning the walls from area artisans. The artists currently featured are all members of the Prince George’s Artists Association (www.artistsofpgaa.org).
The old adage of not judging a book by its cover can most definitely be applied to restaurant exteriors. You never know what kind of gem you will find unless you are willing to open the door and see what’s inside.
Golden Flame Restaurant
8630 Fenton Street
Silver Spring, MD 20912
301-588-7250
www.goldenflamerestaurant.com
Monday – Friday 11:30 am – 10:00 pm
Saturday 4:00pm – 10:00 pm
Sunday Brunch 10:30 am – 2:30 pm
Sunday 3:00 pm – 9:00 pm
Pre-theatre menu 4:00 pm - 7:00 pm
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