
March 2009
by Elizabeth Brinkama
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Co-owner Robin Smith |
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Chef and co-owner Gillian Clark whips up her tasteful creations in the kitchen–and adorns the covers of her book in the dining room. |
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A bevy of deliciousness |
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Hearty fare includes comfort staples: chicken pot pie, hotdog, and root vegetable casserole. |
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photos by Ann-Marie VanTassell
and Julie Wiatt |
While fans of the dearly departed Colorado Kitchen wait with breathless anticipation for the grand opening of Avenue Ovens, a preview of what is to come from Chef Gillian Clark and business partner Robin Smith can be yours with a quick trip to their latest endeavor in Silver Spring. While Avenue Ovens (slated to open in early summer – fingers and toes crossed) is designed to bring Takoma Park and neighboring denizens a little taste of Eastern Europe, the General Store boasts a more casual menu with a bit of Southern flair that is as easy on the wallet as it is on the taste buds.
The sandwiches are generous enough to share, and share I did. The Veggie Sandwich ($7.00), served on chewy ciabatta bread, is resplendent with sauteed onions, eggplant and mushrooms and topped with crunchy sliced cucumbers and fleshy tomatoes. The interplay of hot and cold ingredients creates a multi-textured mouth feel and highlights each distinctive flavor.
Instead of the usual medley of diced chicken swimming in glop found in most run-of-the-mill chicken salads, the Tarragon Chicken Salad Sandwich ($6.00) at The General Store is layered with large strips of white meat chicken, lightly dressed in tarragon mayonnaise and adorned with fresh lettuce and tomato.
Chef Clark’s fried chicken lives up to its reputation. Moist and tender on the inside and crispy on the outside, the meat literally falls off the bone. A quarter, half or whole chicken (starting at $7.00) are available to order and are accompanied by collard greens and cornbread. The greens are tart, yet not overwhelmed by the vinegar. Crunchy bits of bacon add additional flavor and texture. The cornbread, always tricky as more often than not I find unpalatable unless slathered with butter and/or honey, is moist and flavorful without any outside help from the condiment dish.
Of course, no meal would be complete without an order of the Macaroni and Cheese ($5.00). Some might argue, I being one of them, that the macaroni and cheese is a complete meal in and of itself. With sparse bits of jalapeno peppers, diced onion and topped with buttery bread crumbs, this dish covers all the major food groups (cheese being chief among them).
The highlight of the menu is the fish tacos ($8.00). Three white corn tortillas are stuffed with melted cheddar cheese, slices of radish, a hearty serving of flaky white fish cut length-wise and fried with what truly sets this dish apart…a generous helping of fresh guacamole brimming with chunks of avocado, chopped red onion, minced garlic and a splash of lemon. There is no cilantro, nor tomato, and you don’t miss them. This is the dish I want when it is warm enough to sit outside with an ice cold Corona and lime.
In-house dining is now up and running with patio seating scheduled to open in the spring. The General Store is a great place to pick up a more interesting than the norm office lunch or make a culinary statement at your next meeting, not to mention pleasing the pickiest of your eaters on the home front.
The General Store
6 Post Office Road
Silver Spring, MD 20910
301-562-8787
Tuesday – Friday
8:00 am – 9:00 p.m.
Saturday and Sunday
1:30 pm – 10:00 p.m.
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