February 2009

Dining out in the new economy

by Eliabeth Brinkama
photos by Julie Waitt

They say a penny saved is a penny earned and as we all try to cut back our extracurricular spending, eating out is fast becoming one of those luxuries we are doing without. With a little creativity, however, at Sabroso South American Rotisserie and Grill, a family of four can easily dine out for no more than $20. Located across the street from the Round House Theatre and AFI on Colesville Road, it is still possible to eat well, eat healthy and not feel deprived without straining the family budget.

Sabroso’s menu is limited by design. It constantly evolves as the seasons and availability of ingredients change. The star of the show is the Peruvian rotisserie chicken, marinated in a perfect blend of herbs and spices for 24 hours, then basted and grilled over natural wood chips. The meat literally falls off the bone and while Miss Manners may blanch, licking your fingers is high praise and practically de rigeur.

A worthy co-star is the Churrasco grilled sirloin. Tender, yet slightly chewy, the marinated beef is grilled the Brazilian way on skewers over hot embers and served with an Argentine Chimichun sauce that is a tangy blend of parsley, oregano, garlic, olive oil, salt and pepper, giving your taste buds a nice little wake up call.

Family dinner at Sabroso
Peruvian grilled chicken beats “bucket chicken” any day.
Dulces for your sweetheart.

A dozen side dishes are offered as an accompaniment. Generous portions include cilantro rice – a simple dish of white rice with finely diced fresh cilantro adding a mild bite. Roasted baby red potatoes are bathed in rosemary, oregano and olive oil and virtually melt in your mouth. The chicken noodle soup, using the same herb infused rotisserie chicken, swims in a creamy broth laden with celery, onion, carrots and not overwhelmed by noodles. Seasoned vegetarian black and pinto beans, crispy Yucca wedges, along with sweet plaintains are the other highlights.

A good indication of their popularity, the Empanadas are usually sold out by lunch time. You can call ahead and, within 30 minutes, you will be enjoying spicy chicken or beef stuffed pastry hot out of the oven.

For lighter fare, the Sabroso salad is overflowing with hearty chopped iceberg lettuce, finely diced tomatoes, red onion, bacon (fresh, not processed), chopped rotisserie chicken and sprinkled with parmesan and cotija cheeses dressed with their own special vinaigrette. The Churrasco salad is a blend of romaine lettuce, whole grape tomatoes, julienned carrots, thickly sliced churrasco steak and grated parmesan cheese with your choice of Ranch, Caesar or vinaigrette dressing. There is plenty here to share with your dining companions and as both are made fresh, you can have them prepared vegetarian.

The cafeterias of my youth, staffed with matronly women dressed like little Dutch girls or worse, Nurse Ratched, were known for serving overcooked and over-processed food, usually from a can. The cafeterias of today offer professionally trained cooks, fresh ingredients and inviting décor. With unobtrusive music, much in the Putumayo vein, playing in the background, Sabroso’s interior features warm teal and goldenrod walls with a striking black ceiling that highlights the sleek design of the chrome ceiling fans and light fixtures. Two hanging hand blown glass lamps add a splash of color, while the marbled metallic table tops give the place an artsy vibe. More and more, we are seeing local restaurants feature regional artists as part of their overall design concept, and Sabroso’s is no exception. Beyond wall covering, this not only gives artists a new and creative way to showcase their work, but provides the restaurant with a very tangible connection to the community they are serving.

While they do have a receptacle for recycling, the “dishes” are currently styrofoam with basic white plastic utensils. I find this somewhat jarring, not only clashing with the hipper décor, but more importantly from an environmental standpoint. Hopefully, like the evolving menu, a more eco-friendly alternative will be in the offing soon.

Sabroso South American
Rotisserie & Grill
8624 Colesville Road
Silver Spring, MD 20910

301-576-9994 (phone)
301-565-5232 (fax)
www.sabroso-grill.com

Dine-in or Take-out
Monday – Saturday: 11:00 am – 9:00 pm
Sunday: 12:00 pm – 7:00 pm

Free parking in the lot behind the restaurant after 6pm and all day Sunday