Splurging for scratch

By Allison Sosna

Photos: Allison Sosna

Cakelove, the chic made-from-scratch bakery in downtown Silver Spring, has only been open since January 2006 but has gained attention for its rich desserts

Maybe it was the open pastry kitchen visible from the outside of the store, or the glass display of cakes and cupcakes, or maybe it was the gluten free brownie samples that made me react like a kid in a candy shop; should I say cake shop? Either way, walking into Cakelove that sunny Tuesday at afternoon, was like a relaxing, but overwhelmingly, colorful dream.

Upon entering the bakery, which is situated in the Downtown Silver Spring promenade on Ellsworth drive (across from the Red Rock Canyon Grill), you are immediately drawn to the left side of the shop where three shelves of cakes, chocolate covered strawberries, and cupcakes lie waiting for you to take them home.

If you love cake, like I do, you have already blocked out Outcast blaring in the background and other shoppers, mostly parents and children, who quickly come in and out of the store.

The first time I visited the store I chose a chocolate-covered strawberry and a bottled water (No need to get bottled water; there is a free water dispenser on the other side on top of the bar. Oops.) A blonde-haired woman in black Cakelove attire politely asked me what I wanted. Christine, who had just asked me for my order is also the general manager of the store. She gently handed me the plump strawberry, which was three-fourths covered in dark chocolate goodness, and placed on a piece of parchment paper. I have some pretty high standards for chocolate-covered strawberries. When I was in high school, I used to get them at the Godiva store, where they make them in the window. But my favorite are the ones my friend makes called tuxedo strawberries (they are dipped in black and white chocolate with dark chocolate dots to imitate buttons on a suit).

Cake Love’s top selling strawberries and cream cake, a three layered fluffy yellow cake with vanilla extract, butter cream, and fresh strawberries.

When I sat down at the silver-colored bar and ate the treat I was in heaven. The strawberry was large, delicious, and juicy; I had to catch the pink juice dripping down my chin with the closest napkin. I immediately asked for the recipe, with the hope of recreating them at home. Luckily, Christine was happy to reveal their technique. First, they make a ganache, for which they use 60 percent dark chocolate to 40 percent heavy whipping cream. They mix the two, melt the mixture down and dip the fruit in. Thrilled that I now knew the technique, I made plans to try it at home. At $2.25 a stem, the chocolate covered strawberries will continue to remain a treat.

The feel of Cakelove is warm. Its walls are colored a soft gold that reminds me of the inside of a yellow cupcake. The posters on the walls display pictures and slogans like “trans fats simply wont happen at Cakelove” and T-shirts with female stick figures holding cakes and telling you to serve them at the proper 72 degrees\ Fahrenheit. But also in on the wall, more importantly, is a board that helps advertise local businesses and services that range from babysitting to acupuncture.

“Happy Birthday Warren” ran across the glass window that looked into the second half of the kitchen. Four ovens, an island, and a lot of mixers take up the remainder of the space. To the left of this announcement were schedules for classes; pastry classes.

Classes are offered at Cakelove for both adults and children. Classes like introduction to baking, cake decorating for kids, and teen cookie classes are offered. Check with the individual stores for class information and availability or check out their website at http://www.cakelove.com/services_classes.php.
The strawberry was definitely not the only thing I had at the bakery. Over three visits I tried several cakes and pastries including: “New German Chocolate” cake, strawberry shortcake, the bedroll, an amaretto on vanilla cupcake, the lemon coconut swirl, and “Susie’s a Pink Lady”. Most of the cakes were not as delectable as I had heard or hoped for. Most of the cake’s fillings were extremely dense; not fluffy and light at all. Of those who tasted the cakes with me, complained most that the only thing good was the frosting (a combination of buttermilk and sugar).

Though disappointed in the texture of the cakes, one cake did whistle a tune in my ear. That cake was called Susie’s A Pink Lady. Grease reference aside, the filling of the cake is comprised of whole, beautiful, and at the time, seasonal, raspberries. They hit your tongue in almost every bite. Their tart flavor nestles in your mouth along with the sweet taste of vanilla and butter cream.
Cakelove also offers vegan and gluten-free cakes and goods. For vegans, yellow cake, chocolate cake, cookies, scones (available in chocolate chip and strawberry), and cupcakes are available. Gluten-free yellow cake, chocolate cake, cheesecake, chocolate chip cookies, brownies, and cupcakes are available. Cakelove does ask that orders with vegan and gluten free needs give 24-hour notice.

In addition to cake, while in the store you can also get Gifford’s ice cream (Gifford’s is Washington’s oldest ice cream shop and was an fixture in Silver Spring for decades). The ice cream sits in it’s own labeled refrigerator directly in front of the entry.

Cakelove in Silver Spring is the second installation from Warren Brown. Brown’s first Cakelove is in Washington, D.C. in the U street corridor. It was here that he gained recognition for his cakes and pastries. After pursuing a law career and unsatisfied with his situation and “sensing that people wanted better cake”, he founded Cakelove in 2002. Now, Brown, “self-taught” cook, has two Cakeloves, a LoveCafe, and another Cakelove set to open in Virginia. As a result of his hard work, Brown also hosts a show on the Food Network called Sugar Rush.
Chocolate strawberries and some cakes are worth the splurge at Cakelove. The service is great and the atmosphere welcomes you to sit and relax. Just be prepared to pay up for your sweet tooth.

Cakelove
935 Ellsworth Drive
Silver Spring, MD 20910
301-565-2253

Open: Monday-Thursday 9am-9pm Friday & Saturday 9am-10pm Sunday 10am-9pm.

Allison Sosna is a graduate of American University and receives formal culinary training from renowned chefs at L’Academie De Cuisine. She has worked as a cook in several restaurants in Washington D.C. and Maryland, with her most recent work at Hook in Georgetown.

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