In ever-changing Silver Spring, there's one place like home: Da Marco Italia Gourmet

by Sara Wald
Photos by Julie Wiatt

Among all of downtown Silver Spring's new culinary arrivals, Da Marco remains a traditional and familiar neighborhood kitchen. The tiny deli-by-day, restaurant-by-night almost feels like your own dining room. Maybe it's the sense of family -- this is a restaurant passed from one generation to the next. Maybe it's the fireplace, which serves as an inviting and warm focal point. Or maybe it's the homemade, distinctly fresh, soul-satisfying food.

After his parents sold Italia Gourmet in harder times in 1999, Marco Fortini (above) bought back the family store in 2005. Da Marco now serves homemade dinners prepared by Marco's wife, Giuliana, and continues to offer Italian deli selections and lunch sandwiches such as the eggplant sub below.

Da Marco has rich history. Opened as Italia Gourmet in 1982 by the Fortini family, it quickly became a staple Italian deli and gourmet grocery. In 1999, when rising crime in Silver Spring led to a decline in business, the Fortinis decided not to renew their lease.

But last year, Marco Fortini decided to buy back his parents' former business. He has chosen to maintain the deli and grocery services and add a dinner service Wednesday through Sunday nights. He also gave the business a new name, which translates to "go to Marco" or "Marco's place."

Da Marco's unassuming roots still show at dinnertime. Standard-issue chairs and tables take up the front half of the space, while the deli, kitchen, and grocery fill the back half. Dimmed lighting and romantic Italian music smooth the transition from quick afternoon carryouts to slow-paced dinners.  

On a recent visit, my guest and I felt like we were sitting down to a Fortini family meal. Marco waited on our table, and our meals were prepared by Marco's wife, Giuliana, a native of Alatri, Italy. They spoke in Italian and Giuliana carried her baby with her as she bustled around the restaurant. Marco chatted with us like we were old friends, and kept offering us more. Everything they offer is authentic, and everything they prepare is astoundingly fresh.

Our meal began with warm bread. It quickly soaked up a pool of balsamic vinegar and olive oil. The polenta fritta, an appetizer of four cornmeal patties, was not as good. The patties were bland and soggy, but the dish was saved by the accompanying marinara sauce that was perfectly tangy and fresh. A bed of juicy greens and carrots made a better lead-in to our meal, dressed simply with balsamic vinegar, olive oil, and freshly cracked pepper.

Among the main dishes, a robust and satisfying standout was penne trio, a pasta dish with chicken, sun-dried tomatoes, and olives in a rosé sauce. The homemade potato gnocchi, too, was stick-to-your-ribs delicious. Its pesto sauce was extra flavorful with pine nuts and couldn't have been fresher. Marco said that the couple grows the pesto basil in their home garden.

The freshess carried over into the dessert course as well. Our cannoli was clearly filled with mascarpone seconds before it arrived -- it was perfectly crunchy and not at all soggy, an excellent choice for dessert.

Just like at an authentic family dinner, saying goodnight was a difficult. Our heavy stomachs, light hearts, made it tempting to linger for hours. We couldn't help but feel part of the family.

Da Marco Italia Gourmet • 8662 Colesville Road, Silver Spring • 301-588-6999
Hours: Carryout/lunch, Monday-Saturday 10:30 a.m. to 5 p.m;
Dinner, Wednesday-Saturday 6 to 9 p.m.

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