McGinty’s Public House

story by Patricia M. Grossman, photos by julie wiatt

McGinty's Public House bills itself as a traditional Irish pub and restaurant. One imagines a place dominated by pints of dark beer, Jameson whiskey, heavy bar food with lots of potatoes to please a lively crowd of drinkers. But don't let Irish born owner-managers Brian Dolphin and Greg Whelan fool you. As soon as you open the menu, you will be whisked away to a spot on the old sod where traditional Irish ingredients are tweaked and twisted artfully by the Japanese-born chef who specializes in fusion cuisine.

That is McGinty's little secret: Executive Chef Munehiro Mori.

I happened to speak with Chef Mori at the bar inside. Modest and unassuming, Mori left his homeland when he was twenty; he’s now 41. He said he learned how to prepare Irish food from reading recipe books. He didn’t mention he has worked with renowned chefs Wolfgang Puck and Ann Cashion. It was our waitress that night, Siobhan, (yes she’s Irish) who filled us in on Chef Mori’s impressive culinary background, including his gentle refusal to accept an invitation to appear on the Food Network’s Iron Chef.

Although we came to check out the food, what evening at an Irish pub would be complete without some drinking? My group of dining companions began the evening with a round that including Irish whiskey, stout, and pale ale. I ordered a non-alcoholic O'Doul's to try and keep in the spirit of the evening. Though I'm not a drinker, one member of our group convinced me to try a sip of his draught Guinness Stout, which came with a gorgeous creamy head. "If you've got Guinness, you've got a meal," he proclaimed.

Another friend enlightened the rest of us with the story behind the sparkling golden ale he was drinking. It seems the dark ale and porters brewed in England in the 1700s would not survive long ocean voyages en route to India without spoiling. A new recipe, heavier in hops and alcohol, resulted in the paler, more bitter variety of beer that could withstand the long trip without souring. Hence the name India Pale Ale.

McGinty's list of appetizers is a delight to read, especially compared to what you might consider "bar food." Looking over a list that includes fried oyster with pickled vegetable relish, Irish smoked salmon, Prince Edward Island mussels mariniere, grilled Irish pork sausage, jumbo shrimp cocktail, classic Maryland crab cake, crispy fried calamari and Boxty.

We thought we should try what I ultimately thought was the most amazing dish of the evening-Boxty, an Irish classic made with Chef Mori's modern twist. Traditional boxty are potato pancakes made with very finely grated potato, held together with a little flour and egg, usually seasoned simply with salt and pepper. McGinty's Boxty are scallion and potato cakes filled with Dubliner Irish cheddar served with sour cream sauce and a balsamic vinegar reduction. When this appetizer came to the table it looked like five sausage patties on a small white oblong plate. Sausage patties these were not. The potato cakes swirled in the cream sauce were indescribable. Period.

Each night Chef Mori features a different menu of entrees such as the pan roasted duck breast with cherry port wine sauce served with mashed potatoes and sautéed asparagus ($21.95), roasted portabella mushroom with Vermont goat cheese served with sautéed vegetables, pico de gallo and curry oil ($22.50) and sautéed Alaskan halibut served with vin-blanc sauce, wild mushrooms, asparagus and wilted spinach ($22.95).

At first I thought I'd try the pan roasted duck for dinner, as I absolutely love duck, but Siobhan had strongly recommended the halibut.

Well, I absolutely loved this halibut. The mushrooms and delicate fish were dressed in a savory, light brown sauce As I started in on the spinach, I was delighted when emerald green asparagus popped out from underneath.These beautifully paired elements with their subtle flavors plated together were the perfect compliment for the halibut.

McGinty's standard menu is simple yet substantial. While I ordered one of the chef's special entrées, one of the members of our group ordered soup alone: Galway Seafood chowder ($7.25) with shrimp, oyster, fish, mushroom, bacon and potatoes. It was hearty, rich and chock full of seafood. Good, but not as earth shattering as my halibut.

Of course at least one of us had to order corned beef and cabbage. Unfortunately, this dish was a bit of a disappointment. The cabbage and the creamy mashed potatoes beneath it were both delicious. Expecting thick cuts of corned beef, as from a roast, the three thin deli-style slices of meat, which were laid criss-cross atop the mound of cabbage, left a lot to be desired. Even the drizzled Irish parsley sauce, meticulously prepared and finishing the presentation didn't save the dish ($13.95).

Of the four McGinty's Classics: fish & chips, corned beef and cabbage, beef and Guinness stew or grilled pork chops, we heard people raving about the pork chops. Unfortunately, no one in our party tried them, but it may be worth a trip back to see how Chef Mori puts his stamp on them.

Siobhan brought four desserts: a colorful bread pudding, a ramekin of creme brulée, a chocolate soufflé and a poached Bosc pear with Irish whiskey caramel sauce and vanilla ice cream The pear was standing upright, covered in a thick brown sauce, stem pointing towards the sky. We passed the eye-pleasing sweets around the table, and no one was disappointed. One of our group stated the creme brulée was among the best he'd ever had.

As the early summer's night began to fall on Ellsworth Drive, we counted ourselves fortunate, soaking up the ambience of yet another high-quality eating establishment right in the heart of Silver Spring. This one has a lot to offer. Besides the choice of outdoor or indoor dining, McGinty's has redefined fusion cuisine to include elements I admit I hadn't even realized were missing in the local landscape. Whether you go for a drink with friends or for a special dinner date, you'll find McGinty's is full of pleasant surprises.

McGinty's Public House 301-587-1270 911 Ellsworth Drive Silver Spring, MD 20910 (in City Place Mall)
Hours: Sunday through Thursday 11:00 a.m. - 1:00 a.m. and Friday and Saturday 11:00 a.m. - 2:00 a.m. (Dinner orders can be placed until 10:30 p.m.) Visit mcgintyspublichouse.com for information about live music and events.