Ceviche adds Latin zing to Silver Spring

By Patricia Grossman

Photos: Julie Wiatt

Ceviche, the new Latin-American restaurant in Silver Spring, is cool: minimalist furniture, metal ceiling, and dramatic lighting create an intense club atmosphere. On weekends, the Mojitos are flowing and it’s standing room only. All this, tucked away on Ellsworth Avenue, a flight above the colorful mosaic fountain.

Ceviche’s eponymous specialty is raw seafood marinated in lime or lemon juice, which “cooks” the fish without heating it. The small squares of marinated fish (or shrimp or mixed seafood) are mixed with other ingredients to make a “fish salad.”

Five different styles of Ceviche are offered on the menu: Natural (as described below), Peruano (with a yellow pepper sauce), Hondureño (in a coconut base), Ecuatoriano (with fresh tomato) and Tuna (a modern version of Ceviche with ginger, soy sauce and wasabi). Each are offered at $9.50 a serving. We were hoping for a Ceviche sampler and our waitress told us the management was creating one but that they hadn’t found the right serving platters. So, upon the waitress’s recommendation we ordered Ceviche Natural, which is the classic, and, of the fish, shrimp or mixed seafood, she suggested the fish. Ceviche Natural came to our table on a small, square glass plate: bite-sized cubes of white fish, which had been marinated in lime juice and then tossed with cilantro, onions and hot jalapeno peppers.

A bowl of plantain chips, artistically cut in lengths rather than the small coin shapes, had been brought to our table earlier and we used them to scoop up the Ceviche. Steering away from the hot peppers, I found the fish mild, tender and tasty — just enough to whet the appetite. My dining companion, a Ceviche connoisseur, was sufficiently impressed.

While the restaurant’s signature dish was exciting enough, we unknowingly were about to embark on a star-studded Latin American tasting journey with the rest of our meal.

Although we refrained from the appetizers, on my next visit, which will be soon, I’ve decided on solely appetizers because so many of them seemed intriguing, more so than the Spanish tapas which have been in vogue recently: Salted cod and potato puree with garlic toast, grilled fresh sardines with coriander mojo, jumbo prawns, garlic and fresh bay leaves, Spanish chorizo, potatoes, garlic and bay leaves, chicken wings with chipotle sauce and lime, chicken cilantro fritter with smoked jalapeno sauce.

Hopefully Ceviche will put their Sopa de Mariscos (seafood soup, $10) on the regular menu soon; fortunately we came on a day when it was a special. A tomato-based broth flavored with shrimp, celery, red and green peppers and chock full of fish, shellfish and gigantic shrimp (prawns) was presented in a large bowl with mussel shells popping up through the broth. My dining companion ordered the special and I was thrilled she shared this delicate yet savory soup with me.

Of the ten entrees listed I decided on the Pescado Hondureño, a white fish baked in coconut milk, chiles and cilantro. It happened to be the most expensive dish on the menu at $19. A generous portion of halibut, covered with a festive layer of diced red and green bell pepper made up this dish. The halibut sat three inches thick. It reminded me of a piece of Chilean sea bass but not as oily and, paired with the coconut milk and cilantro, the flavor was superb.

Other tempting entrees with refreshing ingredient combinations that sparked my enthusiasm for eating included the shrimp baked in yellow pepper sauce, half roasted chicken in beer and cumin, grilled beef with chimichurri sauce “Argentinian style,” slow-roasted pork rib with lime-braised red onions (I’m trying this one soon), and the sweet and sour grilled pork chop.

Each entrée is served with “your favorite acompanante”: white rice, potatoes, fried plantains, yuca with cilantro mojo, or sautéed vegetables. There was no question my favorite accompaniment was the fried plantains and they were great.

Ceviche has a nice listing of red and white wines. But I’d suggest a Mojito: rum, fresh mint, lime and sugar ($7). For lunch my dining partner and I split a limeade — a virgin Mojito. You’ve got to try one, virgin or not. For the real daring there is the “Amor Prohibido” — tequila, with ginger-infused passion fruit and jalapeño — Silver Spring, are we ready for this?!

Ceviche is located at 921-J Ellsworth Drive, Silver Spring, MD 20910, 301-608-0081. Hours of operation are Monday through Thursday 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Fridays 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m. Saturday and Sunday 5:30 p.m. – 11 p.m. The full bar and lounge is opened until 1 a.m. www.latinconcepts.com