In a galaxy close, close by...
Spacious billiards and stellar bar food

by Patricia B. Grossman

Photos: Julie Wiatt Menu options include crabcakes, barbecued ribs and calamari.

In September 2004, Galaxy Billiards arrived on Ellsworth Avenue, a spectacular addition to the array of new stores and resturants in Silver Spring. This joint is light years away from those stuffy, smoky pool halls that include a grill as a mere afterthought. At the Galaxy, diners replace smokers, and enjoyable cuisine replaces standard bar food.

As I entered the Galaxy, I was surprised to see how big, clean, and modern it is. At least 20 professional-sized emerald green pool tables are laid out in an expansive space, along with tables and chairs for seating and resting after pool shots. A long bar with comfortable chairs is to the left, and hanging from the ceiling is a large light installation that twinkles like the heavens. Rows of televisions are also mounted from the ceiling, and high-tech digitized jukeboxes are everywhere. Conspicuously absent, however, are ashtrays. Smoking is not permitted anywhere in the Galaxy.

Young Yoon, one of the four owners of the Galaxy, greeted my dining partner and me as we walked in for lunch. We came during the day because from 11:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m., you can play pool for free when you order lunch.

It's a good thing pool is not a physically strenuous activity, because we ordered a big lunch from quite an interesting menu.

"Galaxy Starters" do include the usual chicken strips, mozzarella sticks, and popcorn shrimp, but the list holds surprises--such as fried calamari. For $8.00 we ordered the calamari as an appetizer, and the portion was well worth the price. While the batter came out a little soft, the seasoning was delicious, and my dining partner loved the accompanying marinara sauce.

Galaxy wings are available by the dozen and are offered with an array of dipping sauces: Galaxy original, hot, golden (Italian mild), and barbecue. The menu has a small but varied selection of salads as well as a number of sandwiches, including Philly cheesesteaks, reubens, and a crab cake sandwich.

The staff has some suggestions as well. Young said that he likes the burgers, and our waitress, Lissette, who couldn't have been nicer or sweeter, often orders the bourbon-glazed sirloin steak and highly recommends it.

Our friendly waitress recommends the bourbon-glazed sirloin.

To complement your meal or liven up your pool game, beer and wine are available, as well as "Interplanetary Cocktails" such as the Frozen Cosmic Brain Freeze and the Milky Way Shooter.

My dining partner opted for the crab cake sandwich. I decided on an "Atmospheric Entrée," which is accompanied by one starch and the vegetable of the day. My choices included the grilled Atlantic salmon, which looked appealing with its lemon beurre blanc sauce; and the Mauritania crab cake dinner, with two medallions of lump crab on toast topped with a saffron lemon sauce.

I settled on a half-rack of barbecued baby back ribs with French fries and coleslaw. I was impressed with the ribs, meaty and tender and so big that I thought the waitress had mistakenly brought me a full rack.

Soon the meal became secondary, however, as we then commenced a pool game. Neither of us having much finesse, my guest and I played the same game for an hour. But every time I missed a shot, I got to sit back down and pop another delicious calamari into my mouth. With such unexpectedly good food, who cares who wins the game?

Galaxy Billiards and Café is located at 8661 Colesville Road #A-104, Silver Spring. 301- 495-0081. Open daily from 11:00 a.m. to 3:00 a.m. Last call for food is 1:00 a.m. on weekends and midnight on weekdays. After 7:00 p.m. you must be over 21 to enter, unless accompanied by a parent or guardian.