Features

The classic Crisfield

Two silver spring locations, one grand seafood tradition

REVIEW AND PHOTOS BY PATRICIA B. GROSSMAN

Which Crisfield? Indeed, there are two of them in Silver Spring. One is in the Lee Building at the corner of Georgia Ave. and Colesville Rd., and the other is right down the street on Georgia Ave. near the DC line—the "original Crisfield"—which this column is about.

At one time, the same people owned both Crisfields. In 1944, the Landis family first opened the original Crisfield. Then about 10 years ago, the county made plans to demolish the entire block, including the restaurant, so the Landises signed a lease for the new Crisfield location.

However, the Montgomery County Historical Society then decided to preserve the entire block with the original Crisfield, making it an historic landmark. The Landises now had two locations, and the only way they could get out of their new lease was to give the leasing company their famous name, Crisfield.

It is noteworthy that while both Crisfield restaurants serve seafood, it is only the original Crisfield which offers the signature Chesapeake Bay seafood dishes that Mrs. Landis brought back from Crisfield, Md. on the Eastern Shore.

Enter this Crisfield and you will find a relaxed and casual atmosphere. There are nautical brass rails at the bar—where, by the way, you can get a draft beer for only $1.00. An extensive display of beer steins run along the ceiling, and an elegant collection of oyster plates are shown in a large antique cupboard.

Two friends accompanied me to Crisfield for dinner. We were greeted by our waitress, who gave us our choice of tables. On weekends there is a lengthy line, she told us, but not usually on a Wednesday, the night we went. While beer, wine, and a fine Spanish champagne were offered, we opted for juice, and for $1.50 we each received a 16-ounce Nantucket Juice in its original bottle.

We started with seafood bisque, a spicy soup with plenty of shrimp, crab, and bits of lobster. I thought it too peppery, but my two companions loved it with the little oyster crackers served alongside. We then ordered the freshly shucked Long Island Blue Point oysters, which were large, plump, sweet, and delicious. Because of concerns with the pollution in the Chesapeake Bay, our waitress made it a point to tell us that these oysters were farm-raised. At the original Crisfield, clams and oysters are shucked to order, usually by the one employee who has been shucking their shellfish for the last 47 years. (Oysters are only available in the months with the letter "R" in the name, our waitress told us.) The soft-shelled crabs, which Crisfield’s fries to a perfectly crispy golden brown, are also seasonal, available only in the summer months.

One of my companions always selects the winning entrée, but this night all three of us were delighted with our dishes, thanks to our waitress who steered us away from the crab cakes. I ordered the Crisfield Special, a crab dish served in a light white sauce. It is similar to their crab imperial but without the added bread crumbs and green peppers. The portion was more than generous, and the homemade coleslaw was delicious—not too vinegary and not too sweet.

My first companion ordered the special of the day: rockfish stuffed with crab, for a pricey $24. 50. She kept raving about it all night, saying how moist and delicious it was. African rock lobster tail was included in the broiled combination platter that my second companion ordered. He said it was especially good dipped in the melted butter.

For those with smaller appetites, lighter fare is served all day, and an entire section offers children’s selections.

None of us could think of ordering dessert—we had no room for it, despite Crisfield’s famous rum cake, which the second generation of Landis women continues to make every week. We did end our meal with coffee, which was smooth and freshly brewed. Without asking, our cups were refilled.

While the lump crabmeat I savored that Wednesday was delectable, I eagerly look forward to the summer and another season of original Crisfield fried soft-shelled crab sandwiches with tomatoes and mayonnaise. As a substitute during the winter months, I order their fried perch sandwich ($6.00), which I find nothing less than sumptuous.

Many of the selections at the original Crisfield are not inexpensive, but a more down-home, traditional seafood restaurant you will not find, unless you care to venture three hours to the Eastern Shore—and then, there are no guarantees.

Crisfield is located at 8012 Georgia Ave., Silver Spring, Md. Hours are Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday 11:00 a.m. to 9:00 p.m.; Friday and Saturday 11:00 a.m. to 10:30 p.m.; and Sunday 12:00 p.m. to 9:00 p.m. Closed Mondays. Major credit cards accepted. Call 301-589-1306 for information.